Insulation lays a foundation of energy efficiency for residential, commercial and industrial structures. It is one of the most cost-effective ways to save energy and reduce monthly utility bills. Whether you are remodeling a home or building a new business, properly installed insulation offers a host of short-term and long-term advantages:
- Increased, more consistent interior comfort all year long
- Reduced energy usage
- Lower heating and cooling costs
- Less wear and tear on HVAC equipment
- Reduced noise transmission for a quieter space
- Improved air quality
- Reduced moisture intrusion
- Less overall environmental impact
We specialize in three major types of Insulation: Fiberglass Batt, Fiberglass Blow, and Spray Foam. In addition, we also provide Rock or Mineral Wool and special order Cellulose Blow insulation. Wool helps sound proof rooms and is often used in home gyms and bedrooms near airports and heavy traffic. Cellulose can be used in place of Fiberglass Blow and is made from recycled paper products; this is less common and not as easily applied.
Each type has it’s own positives and drawbacks and can be overwhelming if you don’t know the ins and outs of insulation. Incorrectly installed insulation can lead to decades of loss of energy efficiency, meaning thousands of dollars literally going out the window in utility costs. When you choose Krieser Drywall & Insulation you can rest assured that your project is being handled by professionals who will ensure your building is insulated correctly, efficiently and according to all local codes.
As always, we’d be happy to assist you and come out and take a look at your project and aid you in making the correct decision specifically tailored to your needs.
R-Value is the capacity of an insulating material to resist heat flow. It is the measure of resistance to heat flow through a given thickness of material. In theory, the higher the R-value, the better the insulation and the more energy you will save. Yet many factors go into rating insulation and reducing insulation to a number doesn’t tell the whole story since heat moves in and out of home in four ways: by conduction (which R-Value measures), convection, radiation and air infiltration. To learn more about R-Value and Insulation please visit Energy.gov.
Please call 402-432-2031 with any questions or to schedule your free estimate today!
Spray Foam has been around since 1989 and is the most efficient insulating material used today. Foam is an insulation and air barrier material that seals walls, floors and ceiling cavities against air movement (convection) and heat transfer (conduction). It can be sprayed into an open cavity, attics, crawl spaces, and rim joists. Foam gets into every crevice, cavity, around every wire and pipe including around electrical outlets and light fixtures creating an airtight seal. Foam never settles, sags, or loses its shape over time. It can be installed in hard to fit areas including tight and awkward irregular-shaped cavities, making it ideal for attics and complex architectural designs.
There are two types of Spray Foam based upon density: Open-Cell and Closed-Cell. The densities depend on the application, the material used and the area it’s to be applied. It is measured by the cubic foot and can range from 0.4 to 20 lb. per ft3. We are able to accommodate all of these densities and applications and have been installing Spray Foam in homes, businesses, and agricultural structures since 2011.
Closed-Cell: High Density
As Closed-Cell Foam does not allow for water to pass through, it is installed in metal buildings as the conduction of metal can easily condensate due to temperature fluctuation. It is the material of choice for exteriors and the majority of commercial applications. It can be used for trench fill and provides a vapor barrier.
As Foam fully adheres to both the exterior sheathing and the studs, reinforcing both, you’re essentially gluing the entire building together. With this added rigidity, there will be less wall movement due to wind, vibration, and occupant activity. Your walls will have greater than code required resistance to “racking events” such as tornadoes. Closed-Cell Foam has been found by National Association of Home Builders researchers to add between 75% to 200% racking strength to a building depending on the structure and building materials. Approximately, a 2 lb. Closed-Cell Foam provides an R-Value of 6.8 per inch thick.
As the closed-cell structure does not allow for sound attenuation, a sound absorbing material should be combined with the Foam where appropriate. For instance, inside a home with walls 2’ x 6’ or greater, Closed-Cell is the finest insulation to install but will need to be combined with Fiberglass for a hybrid insulation. Typically, 2 inches of Closed-Cell Foam are installed then covered with Fiberglass Batt to fill the cavity. This combination is the highest quality and most effective at insulating to provide maximum energy savings.
Open-Cell: Low Density
The low-density, Open-Cell structure is great for sound attenuation (reduction) purposes as it is able to absorb sound waves. It allows water to pass through it and so does not provide a vapor barrier. Most commonly installed in interior walls over wood framing, exposed floors, and roof decks, it fills the whole cavity. Once cured, the soft foam is easily trimmed flush with the studs.
It provides an air seal and approximately, 0.5 lb. Open-Cell Foam provides an R-Value of 3.7 per inch thick. It will allow moisture to pass through, making it the choice for wood roof decks so you’d become aware of any leak and could attend to it, and not potentially rot the structure.
Give Krieser Drywall & Insulation a call at 402-432-2031 to schedule your free estimate today!
Fiberglass insulation is made of plastic reinforced by tiny glass fibers and comes in rolls or batts that come in differing widths to fit between studs and have differing R-values. It is the most common insulation found in homes today and is cost effective and reliable. Fiberglass is installed using friction-fit or staples and is relatively easy compared to other insulation though eye, skin, and respiratory protection must be used when handling fiberglass. It can withstand getting wet and still insulate effectively, and will not shrink. Fiberglass is fire retardant and does not host pests.
Because of its ease of installation many choose to take on installing Fiberglass themselves which can be problematic if you are unaware of all the nuances of air flow. Regardless of Fiberglass’ R-Value, if there are any gaps between studs and wall coverings the R-Value is diminished, making a tight fit essential.
It is the most common insulation choice for walls, rim and floor joists, basements, and attics. Proper installation makes all the difference with Fiberglass, together with the right fit and air sealing (additional foam to seal cracks and joints) you will have a building that is air tight and comfortable for decades to come.
With Krieser Drywall & Insulation, we take pride in a job done right every time and at a competitive price.
Call for your free estimate today 402-432-2031.
Blown-In-Blanket Fiberglass, known as Blow, is a common and efficient insulation comprised of small particles of fiberglass (40% to 60% recycled glass). These particles form an insulation material that conforms to any space without disturbing structures, wires, ducts, or finishes. It is well suited for retrofits and hard to insulate areas. Blow-in insulation is widely considered the best means of upgrading insulation in existing construction, both for attic spaces and in wall cavities. It tolerates getting wet once and still is able to insulate well, does not provide a food source for pests, is fireproof and can be installed two ways; loose-fill or dense-pack.
Typically two installers work together to install Blow. One worker moves around the attic with the blower hose, spraying fluffed-up insulation across the floor and into cavities. The other worker operates the blower unit; feeding bags of insulation into the hopper and controlling the air mixture to keep the hoses blowing freely. As with Fiberglass Batt, eye, respiratory, and skin protection is necessary.
Attics can be loose-fill blown-in on either new or existing buildings. Blow is the ideal choice for attics as it conforms around all the complex structures (framing, wires, pipes, and ducts) of an attic’s architecture. Blow can be applied over the top of existing batt insulation to add additional R-Value.
For new construction, Blow is dense-packed behind netting (bibs). First, a netting is installed over the open studs and then through holes, insulation is blown-into the bibs . Blown-in at the correct density, Fiberglass will not sag or shrink under its own weight.
Krieser Drywall & Insulation maintains an industrial blower to ensure a custom-fit densely packed cavity every time.
If you have an existing home that needs more insulation, there are a few options. We recommend first going around your home and doing as many do-it-yourself projects as possible. Install more weather-stripping on windows and doors, add more caulking to outdoor windows, install door sweeps, install electrical outlet cover gaskets, put plastic over windows, etc. These simple, easy, cost effective measures make a large impact in reducing air movement. Second, check your attic insulation. A properly insulated attic has 13″ to 18″ of blown insulation; simply measure with a ruler to see if you have enough. Up to 90% of American homes are under insulated, the best way to add insulation, to install additional attic insulation. Third, call a professional. Krieser can help you determine the best way to insulate your existing home, run a blower door test, and inspect your existing insulation.
Unfortunately, there are only two options to insulate existing walls, both costly, messy, and time consuming. Option one, remove existing sheetrock, remove any old insulation, install new insulation, and replace drywall. Option two, drill and fill; this can only be done on walls where there is no insulation in the wall cavities whatsoever. Installers drill a three-inch hole in the sheetrock in each cavity (between the studs) and blow-in fiberglass insulation, densely filling the cavity. The sheetrock plug is then replaced and will need to be patched with mud and finished and repainted. We strongly recommend trying DIY insulating projects, and checking your attic insulation before you consider one of the above wall options.